It’s a little known fact that the Parisians don’t do breakfast. Or rather, they don’t do breakfast the way we want them to do breakfast. It’s the least important meal of the day and is often a croissant (no joke) and a coffee. However, they are catching up on the brunch front, and are keen to get involved in the laziness of a late ‘breakast’ that’s more than viennoiserie.
And in Derriere, Parisian brunch is flexing its’ muscleswith an all mighty ‘bam’. The owners (part of the group that own Momo and Sketch in London) say they want to welcome guests into their ‘home’, adequately setting up the restaurant with various house-like rooms –bathrooms/bedrooms/dining rooms/etc. Although having looked around, it’s a whole lot of bric and brac to be considered homey. In fact it’s bang on the Shoreditch trend with furniture pulled from salvage yards, exposed plastering, brick work on full display and mismatched crockery.
Make of that what you will.
The concept of simple yet good quality food, is however, one to fall head over heels for, because it’s executed without fuss and great comfort. For your €42 you get a buffet of fresh fruits, tarts, cakes, breads and an overwhelming variety of cheese. Then you choose from the menu a starterand a main, plus a coffee and a freshly squeezed juice (a citrus juice ofcourse). And don’t be deceived, they do not by any means skimp on the starters and mains just because they’re offering you a back and forth eat as much as you can fruit and cheese buffet. I’m sure you would be, as I was myself, thrilled to see the menu filled with options of terrine, veal ribs, eggs in various ways and basically many versions of a Sunday lunch.
At this point I have to note I was in a bit of a rush to catch the Eurostar so my main choice was an Eggs Benedict (actually an eggsroyale), which I managed three forkfuls max. And this would be my only qualm.Whilst everything else was stellar, the egg dish in front of me was lacking. Severely. The smoked salmon was a touch too salty, which didn’t help the fact that the hollandaise was over salted, far too thick and beginning to split. Surprisingly the entire thing was too stodgy for me to stuff down my throat at any quick pace.
Don’t let that deter you though! The large group I was with determined that everything else was great and far too easily consumed. I would return with more time on my hands, more room in my stomach and take pleasure in the ribs that I’ll be having for ‘breakfast’.
A few things to note – brunch starts at 12pm, booking is advised for groups bigger than 3 people, and if you want to play on the pingpong table, be quick.
rue des Gravilliers
+ 33 1 44 61 91 95